Waterton Lakes National Park

The Final Chapter of Our Canadian Rockies Summer

After three months RVing through the Canadian Rockies, we made our way south to Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta. It was our final stop in Canada.

Waterton sits where prairie meets steep mountain walls at the edge of the U.S. border. Smaller than Banff. Less crowded than Lake Louise. Windier than anywhere else we visited. And completely distinct. By the time we arrived, we had logged hundreds of miles, dozens of hikes, and a full summer of shared adventures with the group we had been traveling alongside.

Waterton marked the close of that season.

Waterton Townsite centers around one main street lined with restaurants, small shops, and historic buildings. Upper Waterton Lake stretches south toward Montana, framed by sharp peaks rising straight from the shoreline. The wind moves constantly across the water, shaping the mood of the town. We wandered the lakeshore, stepped into cafés, and slowed down after weeks of steady travel.

We also explored Red Rock Canyon, where iron-rich rock creates deep red canyon walls that contrast sharply against green forest and blue sky. It is an easy place to walk, explore, and take your time.

Just steps from town is Cameron Falls, where water rushes through layered rock in the middle of everything. It is easily accessible and worth multiple stops depending on the light and recent rainfall.

Exploring Waterton Townsite and the Surrounding Area

And at Blakiston Falls, water cuts through narrow rock walls in a powerful rush. It is a short stop, but one that leaves an impression.

Waterton offers variety in a compact space.

Hiking Crypt Lake

The most talked-about hike in the park is the Crypt Lake Trail. We chose to hike it on Holly’s birthday.

Stats from our day:

11.3 miles round trip

~ 2,300 ft. of elevation gain

The hike begins with a ferry ride, which already makes it feel different. The first miles build gradually through forest and along waterfalls. You hear water long before you see it.

Then Crypt Lake Falls comes into view, pouring down a tall cliff face above the trail.

From there, the tone shifts. The path narrows in places. The terrain turns rockier. Exposure increases. There is a short tunnel carved through stone and a chain-assisted traverse along the cliff.

Eventually, the lake appears. Crypt Lake sits in a dramatic alpine bowl, its water a deep turquoise beneath steep rock faces. After logging more than 11 miles, reaching the shoreline felt earned.

Not everyone celebrates a birthday with a full-day mountain hike, but for us it felt exactly right

Closing the Season at Bear’s Hump

On one of our final mornings in Waterton, we hiked Bear’s Hump at sunrise with the friends we had been traveling with all summer. The trail is short but steep, about 1.8 miles round trip, and the summit overlooks the entire townsite and Upper Waterton Lake.

We carried muffins, coffee, and mimosas.

At the top, we sat together in the cool morning air and talked about the miles we had driven, the storms we had waited out, the wildlife sightings, and the trails that surprised us most. As the sun rose over the lake, it felt like a natural conclusion to the season.

No big speech. No ceremony.

Just shared perspective and gratitude for the summer we experienced together.

Planning Your Visit to Waterton Lakes National Park

If you are adding Waterton to your Canadian Rockies itinerary, here are a few practical things to know.

Best Time to Visit

Waterton Lakes National Park is typically most accessible from late spring through early fall, with July through September offering the most reliable hiking conditions.

That said, Waterton has its own personality — and wind is part of it. Calm mornings can shift quickly, especially near Upper Waterton Lake. Starting hikes early not only helps with crowds but also with weather.

Shoulder season can be beautiful and quieter, but some services and campgrounds operate on limited schedules, so check ahead.

Getting Around the Park

Waterton is compact compared to Banff or Jasper. Most major highlights are within a short drive of town.

Key stops include:

• Cameron Falls in the townsite

• Red Rock Canyon (about 15 minutes from town)

• Blakiston Falls

• Bear’s Hump trailhead

• The Crypt Lake boat dock

Roads into and through the park are paved and accessible for most vehicles, including larger RVs, though some campground loops require careful navigation.

Hiking in Waterton

Waterton offers a range of hiking options, from short scenic climbs to full-day alpine adventures.

Shorter hikes:

• Bear’s Hump (about 1.8 miles round trip)

• Blakiston Falls

• Red Rock Canyon area trails

Full-day challenge:

• Crypt Lake Trail (11+ miles round trip, ferry access required)

• Carthew-Alderson Trail (about 12 miles point-to-point with shuttle)

• Akamina Ridge (long ridge walk with panoramic views and exposure)

Carthew-Alderson is one of the most scenic point-to-point hikes in the park, connecting Cameron Lake to the townsite. It’s typically done as a shuttle hike and delivers sweeping alpine views almost the entire way.

Akamina Ridge is for experienced hikers comfortable with exposure. The ridge offers sustained views in every direction and feels more remote than some of the park’s better-known trails.

If hiking Crypt Lake, reserve ferry tickets in advance during peak season and allow 6 to 8 hours on trail.

Always carry:

• Plenty of water

• High-energy snacks for lunch

• Bear spray

• Sun protection

• Trekking poles for rocky sections

• Layers (weather shifts quickly)

• Proper footwear (I like ankle support)

RV Camping in Waterton

The primary campground in town is Townsite Campground, which offers a mix of serviced and un-serviced sites.

Watch the Full Waterton Episode

Important Considerations:

• Site sizes vary, so check length carefully before booking.

• Large rigs should review loop maps for maneuverability.

• Wind exposure can be significant.

• Reservations in summer are highly recommended.

Additional campgrounds, including Crandell Mountain Campground, offer quieter forested settings depending on seasonal availability. Boondocking is not available inside the park.

Dogs are allowed in the park but must remain on leash.

We documented our entire time in Waterton Lakes National Park, from exploring town and visiting waterfalls to hiking Crypt Lake on Holly’s birthday and closing the season at Bear’s Hump.

You can watch the full episode here

If you are planning a trip to Waterton or mapping out your own Canadian Rockies road trip, this park deserves a place on your list.

For us, it was the final chapter of a summer we will not forget.